Monday, May 2, 2011

Tiramisu (pick me up)

Although it is considered a classic Italian dessert, this is a quite recent addition to the Italian families' cooking book. The first written mention of Tiramisu (tih-ruh-mee-SOO") is to be found in a 1971 cookbook from Treviso (Veneto). Most sources agree that this wonderful dessert has been created in the '60s at Restaurant “Alle Beccherie” in Treviso, by a cook who was influenced by his former working experience in Germany. This dessert has indeed a touch of Mitteleurope, that area in Central Europe corresponding to Austria, North Italy, South Germany, Hungary and Check republic, sharing historical, cultural and oenogastronomical roots.
The name means 'pick me up' or 'cheer me up', referring to the nutritious and tonic properties of eggs and coffee, the main ingredients (not to mention the shot of rum...).

Here goes the classical recipe: feel free to change ingredients according to your taste and necessities but please, if you do so... do not call it Tiramisu and do not quote me!

INGREDIENTS
200 gr Mascarpone (mas-kahr-POH-nay) cheese (about 8 ounces)
100 gr of white sugar (about 1 cup)
4 yolks and 4 whites
two packages of lady fingers (savoiardi)
two cups of expresso
one shot of rum or marsala (dry)

Please note that the dessert will contain uncooked eggs!

PREPARATION
It's pretty simple:
1) with the egg beater, beat the whites until they form stiff, firm peaks (see tips below);
2) prepare a coffee with a 2-3 cups espresso machine (mocha) or make two cups of strong, dark-roast coffee;
3) in a separate bowl beat the yolks with the sugar until the bright orange color of the yolks turn to a pale yellow. Add the mascarpone and keep beating until the mixture is uniform and smooth;
4) add the whites to the cheese mixture and fold in gently in with a spatula. If the whites have been properly whipped they will just slide out over the batter. With the spatula open a way to the whites into the butter and gently mix them with large rotatory movement from the bottom to the top: never use an electric tool or you will loose all the air that you have so carefully emulsified in the whites;
5) pick the smallest bowl in which a lady finger would fit and pour in it the coffee and the shot of rum;
6) with the lady fingers still dry and the container you have choose make an estimate of how many lady fingers you will need and which is the best way to lay them. In general you will start with a layer of cookies, alternate with the custard, and end with the custard;
7) quickly toss the lady fingers in the coffee mixture (do not soak them too much or they will became soggy) and lay the first layer. Made a second layer with the custard (as thick as the cookies) and keep alternating the two, to finish with the mascarpone cream;
8)sprinkle unsweetened cocoa on the top and refrigerate for at least a couple of hours.

TIPS:
Mascarpone: It is worth to look for the real thing. This is a soft creamy cheese. The taste is sweeter and more delicate than cream cheese. I buy mine at Trader Joe's.

Whipping whites:
- leave the eggs at room temperature for a while
- the fresher the eggs, the better
- use perfectly clean tools and bowls (that's why I suggest to beat the beat the whites first and the other ingredients for second)
- in the separation of the yolks avoid that even the smallest trace of them go with the whites
- while whipping move the whipper around the bowl to avoid to have less whipped whites at the edges

Container: it is traditionally a flat shallow container, like a 3-quart rectangular baking dish. It makes easier to cut portion (after refrigeration it will be quite firm). At our last family gathering I tried a trifle bowl and it looked great. although it was maybe less easy to cut!
 
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